Sunday, October 02, 2011

Mount Whitney - The Mountaineer's Route

The Mountaineer's Route was first climbed by John Muir in 1873.  He didn't have to sweat about getting a permit.  Fortunately, by showing up the day before our climb, my friend Sym and I were able to obtain a one day permit for this route.  We started up route round 0500.  If we had actually left at around 0100, we might have made the summit.  For those interested in the details of the day, read on.


Sym at Sunrise Below Lower Boy Scout Lake

We pressed on on Iceberg lake.  I recall the steep snow climb from 09', but today, the cairned route was better.  We came across climbers who had finished the east buttress route of Whitney and were descending at 0930.  I was impressed.  Shortly after this, we had the first precip.  There had been dark skies, but the reality hit with the light hail and thunder in the distance.  By Iceberg Lake, we had anther more serious hail storm.  Lightening, thunder seemed close by near the summit and it hailed for about 30 min.  We were now in the sub-chute, to the left of the main chute to the 'notch'.  This would avoid the small snow field at the bottom of the couloir.

Mt. Whitney East Face

After the Hail
We discussed our options and continued up the steeper part of the couloir that was a class 3 scramble, tricking in places because it was slick with melting hail.  After the steep section, the couloir eased off and walking was easier.  We passed about 4 groups retreating who had turned around.  2 of the groups were guided.   One guide cautioned us about he weather.

The Couloir Covered in Styrofoam Hail
We passed another group of 4 or 5 that had summited.  The had climbed to the notch, then climbed to the summit  via the NW back route (that I'm not familiar with).  They descended via the main N gully, using a rope belay.  They had experience electricity and 'buzzing poles'.  They said there were more storms to the west- which we couldn't see from our position.

Highest Point Achieve Before Retreating
We made it to our high point at 13,600ft, and another storm raged around us.  Hail built up very quickly in the couloir as it streamed down the walls.  We didn't know how long this would last and how much more would be coming.  It was a hard decision after all the time and investment to get to this spot, but we turned around and descended in the hail.  It seem to take us a long time to get back to Iceberg Lake.  

It felt like the temperature was plummeting as we ate lunch at the lake.  We were both tired, and began our long trip back.  Eventually, about 2 hours after we descended, the weather did look much, much better, very windy, but no storms.    Of course we debated if we had made the best decision.  In retrospect, we definitely did.  We didn't know the weather would clear up, the route to the summit was dodgy at best in good conditions.  

550pm - we exited the trail and arrived at the car.  So about 13 hour day for an 11.8 mile hike.
Starting elevation:  8365ft   Max elevation:  13,600ft   Gain:  5,235ft

See the complete picture gallery here.

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Keene Complex Fire - Sept. 10



On the morning of Sept. 10th lightning hit this area in the Keene valley around 5am. These images are from either my home or about a mile away from my home. During the day the fire grew with very strong east winds. By the evening, the fire was climbing fast up a valley that is behind Golden Hills. At night the scene was ominous.... until a rain showers made a real dent on putting out many of the fires. 


Complete image gallery, click here.


The following sequence of images shows how the flames in a ravine exploded over just a few minutes.












View after sunset the mountain and surrounding area.

For complete gallery go to my page.







Tuesday, September 06, 2011

Canyon Fire - Sept. 4th







This fire was started after the fatal crash of a light aircraft in the Tehacahpi Mountains.  This was the view I had as I returned from an extended weekend in the Sierra Nevada.

Amateur video here.


Saturday, July 30, 2011

Travel to the Horizon



On my weekend ride I ran into a couple looking for directions to continue their trip from LA ... to New York.  Nicole and Toby have been riding their bikes for 2 years, from Germany, through Asia, Australia, New Zealand, South America, and now North America.  They were about to go up the Lions Trial from Caliente.  A very steep route that kicks my butt on my light road bike with their 40kg touring machines.  Check out their website Travel to the Horizon and click English to get a taste for their amazing trip!  http://www.reise-zum-horizont.com/

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Climbing in New Zealand

I've had a great time in New Zealand, spending time with family and spending time in the mountains.  Wonderful weather, new friends, and exploring some new places.

Christchurch in the Distance from the Top of Castle Hill Peak
The first part of my outdoor adventures included joining the New Zealand Alpine Club "Summer Camp".  This year the camp was up at the Broken River Ski Field Lodges, near Arthur's Pass.  This is a great location for basing all kinds of hikes and climbs from.

Approach Up the Otira River Valley to Mt. Rolleston
This was an attempt to climb Mt. Rolleston via the Otira scree.  We expected that the weather was not going to be great, but were prepared to climb if the weather did clear.  At the head of the valley the rain became continuous and the clouds moved in making the decision to not attempted the scree climb easy.  Still a nice hike in this beautiful region.

Click here for the photo gallery.        

Since the weather was looking not very favorable for the next day or so, my new climbing partner, Nate, and I decided to regroup in Christchurch, planning to go to Mt. Sommers for some trad climbing.  The approach, rated 'easy' by the brochure, was a sweaty, exhausting climb for myself with 38lb pack.

Climbing Opportunities on the Side of Mt. Sommers
(the Pinnacles Hut is  at the right side of the picture)
Nate and I really climbed some great pitches over the few days.  Great weather, fantastic crag (despite using my alpine boots), and nice area (despite a hut at capacity).  The best trad crack climbing is found on the remains of the ancient rhyolite dome of Mt. Sommers.  Side note:  Active Kiwi families are something, as the Pinnacles hut was full of families and kids as young as age 3.  Impressive.

Nate on Repel from "Christian Principals" Wall
Click here for the Mt. Sommers photo gallery.